Chef Noureen Feerasta started cooking at home, absorbing curry and pakora from her Ismaili parents’ genealogy and experience — her family’s time in Burma infected her khao shay with complex rich broth that’s 10 times more interesting than the trad Thai coconut soup in khao soi. Her restaurant is plain, decorated only with a gorgeous beaded dress from the wedding she cancelled. The extravaganza is all on the plates: Scallop ceviche is a chile-kissed lime-scented treat with coconut milk, puffed rice and complex masala spicing. Chef’s crispy parathas are filled with crispy veg fritter with slightly pickled cabbage and coriander-tinged yogurt. Even desserts are distinctive: Coconut panna cotta is exotic limpid velvet topped with puckery pineapple gel. For milk pastry she reduces milk for hours on low heat, flavours it with cardamom and deep-fries it in phyllo packets, strewing it with rose petals and almonds.
685 Queen St. W., Toronto (map)